It doesn't look like cylinder 4 has been having such a great time lately. Coolant has clearly been getting in, and has 'crystalised' inside the cylinder. It's not very clear in the picture, but there's a big 'blob' of coolant sitting on top of the exhaust valve (as well as the little 'poofs' of it which are clearly visible). Cylinder 4 is shiny, whilst the rest of them are lined with carbon. Every combustion chamber is cracked, and there are cracks between the intake and exhaust valves as well. There is evidence of the coolant in the exhaust manifold as well, suprisingly mostly from chamber 3. The exhaust manifold on cylinder 3 is missing quite a large piece of it's mating surface.

The turbo has a big crack on the exhaust side. The intake manifold is full of oil and gunk. Hi Tumelo Yip, AMC is definitely the way to go.

First introduced in 1993, Toyota's 1KZ-TE was a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel four-cylinder engine. Key features of the 1KZ-TE included its alloy cast iron block, aluminium alloy cylinder head, single overhead camshaft, two valves per cylinder, drive-by-wire electronic throttle control and indirect injection. Furthermore, the 1KZ-TE. Jun 05, 2010 Toyota Granvia unofficial owners club. This site is dedicated to the Toyota Granvia, a luxury four-door people carrier. 1KZ-TE porous/cracked cylinder head? Top High School Baseball Programs In The Country.

Prices from Gemini Parts: Bare - R5,500 excl. VAT Complete - R8,500 excl. VAT Everywhere else I've checked is more expensive.

Victor Reinz gasket kit - R788.60 excl. VAT Cylinder-Head Bolts - R285 excl. VAT Not sure what else we're still going to need. Trying to decide between bare or complete head. Not sure about how to get the valves out of the old head, and concerned about it possibly being a lot of work to get the shims right. I suppose we could try HeadZone for the build-over, but it may still be worthwhile to just get the complete new head. Werner, thanks.

I have some family helping out with good advice. Hi Dane Those pictures would maybe suggest that the engine is broken, I wouldn't drive it if I were you:-/ My (current) theory on why these engines crack heads is quite simple: Uneven heat distribution. The 'back' of the head (cylinder 4 side) is getting hotter than the front, in one or more modes of engine operation (idle, revving, thermostat open, thermostat closed). The thermostat only regulates the 'average' temperature of the head. So whilst it may be keeping the average temperature at 82°C, the front may be (as an example) 72°C and the back 92°C (or worse). Or the front could well be being kept at 82°C and the back is just getting hotter because it's not really getting any coolant circulation at all. From what I've read, the heads on all these engines crack at the rear (cylinders 4 or 3).